Lectra: interview with the CEO, Mr Daniel Harari

Lectra is the world leader in integrated technology solution which helps to automate, streamline and accelerate product design, development and manufacturing processes for various industries like fashion, apparel, accessories, footwear etc. There products and services are being used by 100% of French and 90% of Italian luxury goods companies- brands such as Louis Vuitton, Prada, Christian Dior and many more.

Lectra has opened a subsidiary in Bangalore to help develop new sales opportunities and strengthen relationships with its existing customers. Recently, Lectra announced the launch of a dedicated “Cutting Room Transformation” initiative for manufacturers in India. We speak to Lectra and its CEO Mr. Daniel Harari about the past achievements and future plans for this innovating and growing organization in the field of fashion and apparel.


Apparel: How was the idea for Lectra Systems conceptualized?

Lectra: Lectra was founded in 1973 in France by André Harari, chairman of the Board of Directors. Originally this company was known as Compagnie Financière du Scribe, a venture capital firm specializing in technology companies founded by my brother André Harari. A need of innovation in technology was felt and anticipated in the market. Hence, Lectra ventured into improving current technologies and developing new ones,” said Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO. Initially, it started by offering CAD systems to the apparel industry. In 1985 the company added CAM products to its offer, and so it was a CAD-CAM company dedicated to the apparel industry. In 1993 the company expanded its reach to all the markets using textiles and leather, including upholstery, footwear, automotive, aeronautic etc.

Apparel: Give us a brief account of its business: from inception till today.

Lectra: Lectra is the world leader in integrated technology solutions—softwares, automated cutting systems and associated services—for industries using textiles, leather, industrial fabrics and composite materials. Lectra develops and markets a complete range of solutions that automate, streamline and accelerate its customers’ product design, development, manufacturing and management processes.

This range is tailored to each of the global markets that Lectra serves: fashion (apparel, accessories, footwear), automotive (car seats and interiors, airbags), and furniture industries, as well as other sectors such as the aeronautical and marine industries, wind energy, and personal protective equipment.


Apparel: Lectra has been working closely with Fashion, Apparel and Textiles industries for over three decades. How does the company associate itself with these industries?

Lectra: “We are very close to these industries. Over the years we have delivered many innovations that changed product design, development and manufacturing in the apparel industry. With over 23,000 customers, we have built very strong relationships with key operators in the industry, as well as with other small and medium sized companies,” said Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO.


Apparel: How will the “Cutting Room Transformation” initiatve help the Indian market?

Lectra: “Indian manufacturers operate in an increasingly competitive environment and are under pressure to improve time to market and reduce costs, while expanding their product offer. Indian markets are undergoing rapid transformation in order to supply both growing domestic and export demands. At Lectra, we believe it is our role to help our customers overcome the challenges their industries face. India is a key market for Lectra and our initiative will help Indian manufacturers to implement world class technologies to stay profitable in the challenging market situation. We will capitalize on Lectra’s added-value solutions, service and consulting and to create a clear competitive advantage for our customers and help them turn challenges into opportunities,” said Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO.

Apparel: Give details about Lectra’s software used in the apparel industry which were discussed and showcased in the latest SPESA EXPO, May, 2010.

Lectra: Lectra software is dedicated to design, to the cutting room and to product lifecycle management. It guarantees users precise global control over all activities.

Our Vector FX and MX cutting series, the company's range of cutting solutions from single-ply and matched fabric cutting to high-ply cutting of denim and automotive materials are popular in the apparel industry.

For the fashion market, Lectra’s PLM (Product Lifecycle Management) solution gives decision makers a comprehensive overview of the value chain. Its PLM range, specifically designed for the fashion industry, not only cuts collection costs and development times, but also improves product quality and stimulates creativity. Lectra Fashion PLM is the only extended enterprise solution designed for the fashion industry incorporating all steps in the product design and development process, including colour specification, textile design, style design, merchandising and pattern engineering. Also included is a plug-in option to save and classify sketches directly from Adobe Illustrator CS3/4 directly into Lectra Fashion PLM. These sketches are then not only shared throughout the design and development process but can also be modified, filled with colours and fabrics and used to create boards and other communication tools.

Kaledo V2R2, a professional textile and fashion design platform, which will help creative teams, accelerate the design process while improving communication and collaboration across the supply chain. Kaledo encourages artistic creativity, allowing the design of unique prints, knits and weaves, while structuring the collection creation process and facilitating the exchange of information internal and external to the design environment. It will benefit the design and development team by collaborating with X-Rite's ‘ColorMunki’ which reads colors from physical samples directly into all Kaledo modules and allows access to the full range of ‘Pantone’ colour references.

Optiplan® cutting room management software enables companies to take control of fabric stocks, as well as take into account the availability of raw materials across multiple locations. Optiplan allows production managers to select the most efficient markers, propose alternate solutions, simulate costs and anticipate new production orders.

Lectra's intelligent cutting room offer, the Vector® automated cutter achieves maximum productivity and material savings when connected with Lectra's planning, nesting and spreading solutions. The Vector provides unmatched productivity, flexibility and precision, adapted to all end products, including the most intricate lingerie models to the thickest materials such as denim.

Modaris 3D Fit, the highest-performance virtual 3D prototyping solution, enables pattern makers, designers, developers and sales and marketing teams to simulate and visualize their models in 3D on a virtual mannequin, using the color motifs and fabrics. With Modaris 3D Fit, the look and fit of a garment can be verified, along with a style and entire collection validated. DesignConcept is Lectra's 3D/2D conception and industrialization solution dedicated to advanced materials.

Apparel: What is the size of the market for your software in the apparel business? What kind of international reach does Lectra have, in the apparel industry? How is the market evolving?

Lectra: Lectra serves over 23,000 customers in more than 100 countries. It has over 1400 employees in various subsidiaries. It registered $214 million in 2009 revenues. Lectra earns 63% of its revenues from the apparel industry itself. The company is listed on Euronext Paris. We are also one of the few companies present worldwide in technology solutions and therefore, a good observer of the market’s characteristics and trends. The future of this market looks very promising as there is a lot of scope for innovation and development in the apparel industry. “Bringing the right product to market at the right time is crucial to staying ahead in the field.” said Daniel Harari.


Apparel: Have you got competitors in your field, and how do you see the competitive landscape evolving? What makes Lectra’s services and products the best among its competitors?

Lectra: “Lectra may have competition on one line of product, but as a whole, there is not much competition. American companies did try to give us some competition in the past but presently we are the leading solution providers. Lectra services and products are the best in the industry as we have invested more than 88.6 million euros in research and development and have improved our ability to constantly anticipate the needs of the market, based on 36 years’ of experience,” said Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO.

Apparel: What other key trends do you see in technology adaptation and business processes evolving in the future in the apparel market?

Lectra: “The biggest trend of this decade is the spread of technologies globally, intensification of the use of design, 3D CAD software and PLM. Certainly, new technologies will emerge but we will be able to measure their full impact in the next 10 years. We see Lectra at the helm of this revolution,” said Daniel Harari, Lectra CEO.

Parimita Chakravorty

Bigger and better

Fashion is not limited to one dress size. Even the well endowed have a choice of appearing in the most sought after designs. For long, smart and stylish clothing was the prerogative of those with a perfect figure, much to the envy of the overweight. Not everyone can have an hour-glass or a Greek God figure, therefore plus size clothing has come up as a segment to cater to the need of stylish dressing, for those who are oversized whilst letting them be comfortable in their own skin. Earlier, plus size apparel was essentially lingerie and maternity wear, but, of late western apparel in women’s wear and men’s wear has gained prominence. Larger sizes, exposure to western culture and awareness about fashion trends have accelerated the demand for fashionable plus size apparel in India.

Plus size clothing is a general term given to apparel crafted specifically for men and women of a large build. A plus size would largely range from Medium to 5XL (size 14 to size 26) in women and it escalates to 7XL in men. Shivani Talwar, Director of ‘Just Your Size Designers Pvt Ltd, Bangalore’ states, “Most clients fall in this range; for clients outside this range or with special needs, we provide bespoke services. Special attention is paid on trendiness, right fit and fabric. The clients enjoy stylish and well fitting apparel and do come back for the same."

Though most of the fashion fraternity likes to cater to the needs of the market on the slimmer side but a few brands have come up with the labels specially dedicated to plus size. Brands like Revolution, ALL by Pantaloons, Gia by Westside, Mustard and Royal Classic Polo took fashion to a new level by introducing a different segment for plus size apparel. PLUSS, X’MEX, Geetus and Just Your Size have lent an identity to the large size clothing in general. PLUSS launched by Mr Sandeep Aggarwal (Director of Shiva International), especially deals with plus size Indian women clothing and it offers both casuals as well as formals. ‘Just Your Size’ a designer boutique in Bangalore recognised the potential of medium to plus size clothing in the country and provides both Indian and western wear in this category at affordable prices. Geetus, a designer boutique at citi mall is the brainchild of Anita Bhojwani and Deepti Panjabee which looks after the needs of the trendiest plus size clients. Popular international brands specialising in this segment are Evans, Lane Bryant, Igigi and so on, while brands like Next, Marks and Spencer have a special line of plus-size clothing.

Ample of styles are available in the category of plus size clothing. Men can choose from their variety of expandable waist trousers, jeans, corduroy pants and striped shirts that are priced decently. Women can choose from stylishly designed ethnic kurtas, salwar-kameez, long skirts, tee-shirts, Capri pants, trousers, tunics and jeans. Trendiest bridal wear is offered in this section as well and so is gym, sports and swim wear. These are specially designed so that a larger woman can run, jump and dive in them. These help to accentuate her assets and camouflage her concerns. They are available in a variety of colours, cuts and styles.

The garments are made with right cuts and fabric to make the body look healthy, instead of fat. The cuts are very flattering and can camouflage bulges and flabby areas. Most of the collections are contemporary as well as classic. According to Nisha Somaia of Revolutionary clothing Pvt Limited, "There is a huge change, women don't want to hide their bodies in hideous sacks anymore and are now willing to go funkier and not just wear loose, ill fitting clothes. They want what is contemporary and are in for comfortable fashion". Plus size garments are styled to the last detail, taking a note about the texture and fall of the fabrics (soft draping of Crepes, Chiffon, Georgette, Cotton, Linen, Jute and Satin), cuts, colours and combinations. They aim to make their clients, of any size, look and feel slimmer, comfortable, stylish and confident. Not only men and women, even fashionable clothing for plus size Teens (children) are available at the retail stores. Brands keep on updating their range with the latest trends as more and more demand arises in the market.

Plus size clothing was introduced in the 90’s and over a period of time it has got a strong foothold in the Indian apparel market. Mukesh Pursnani, owner of X’MEX states “When we first started it was tough to get customers simply because people weren’t aware,” But over the years the shop has seen rise in its revenues as well as client base. The plus-size market is still growing, and in the next 5 years it is expected to continue growing as more brands respond to its demand. Plus size apparel market (Rs 11,000 Crores) is virtually untapped. The domestic market in India was valued at Rs 122,400 crore in 2007, as per the India Apparel Report 2008. Plus size apparel contributes approximately 188 crore to the Rs 122,400 crore domestic apparel market. Currently, plus size clothing has a share of 0.15 per cent of the total Indian apparel market. With an obesity rate of 5 per cent in India, the plus size population in the country is in excess of 150 million, creating a huge scope for plus-size clothing. More than 12.1 percent of males and more than 17 percent females are overweight, according to the Third National Family Health Survey 2006. Forty years ago, the average size of a woman was a size 8, but now the average is seen somewhere around a size 14. It is apparent that more plus size clothing should be available to reflect the changes within an average shopper's size.

What really holds back the growth of this market is the absence of a proper study in body sizing and adoption of standardized measurements for the entire country. Also the prices are higher than smaller sizes. Anita Bhojwani from Geetus informs that the manufacture of larger clothes is expensive, making their sale prices shoot up. This affects in the creation of a regular client base. Though Shivani Talwar from ‘Just Your Size’ assures that difference in prices is not much between a regular and plus size apparel. Fitness industry and awareness has grown manifolds in the recent times in India. Market speculation suggests that it might affect the plus size apparel segment a bit, but overall growth cannot be hindered. Shivani Talwar states that she has had clients who lost up to 10 kilos but still came back to her because of the comfort and quality of her designs. Easy availability is another factor which affects this market. As more and more boutiques, retail chains and online stores are catering to this segment, the rise of the revenues and growth of the market is inevitable. Consumers just need the right pricing, fashion and quality in the apparel to keep coming back to it as often as possible. There is a huge opportunity in the plus size segment of the apparel market, which the retailers and brands need to realize, in order to fill the huge gap which is currently present in this segment.


Parimita Chakravorty